When tension pulls the knot tight, the knot prevents downward motion of the pulley. When used in a z-pulley, when tension is released the Bachmann slides along the main rope. As days of high avalanche danger and known avalanche areas are generally avoided, more climbers are injured by a single falling rock or piece of ice.īachmann (bachman) knot: A friction knot similar in design and purpose to a prusik knot with the difference that the Bachmann can be set up in a self-regulating configuration. Snow avalanche conditions for open slopes can often be predicted by monitoring the weather. Unlike a carabiner, prusik cord burns through quickly once it begins sliding on the main line.Īvalanche: Movement down the mountain of previously stationary snow, rock, or both. Self-belay from prusik or bachmann knot is a known unsafe technique. As carabiners have no braking capability, a climber will fall to the lower anchor or to the lowest point between two anchors. By contrast, for a traverse protected by horizontal fixed line, carabiners on slings are often used to connect the climber to the main rope. The condition of the rock, snow or ice determines whether an individual anchor device or an anchor system is required to provide adequate security.Īpproach: The nontechnical section of the climb that leads to the technical part of the climb.Īscender (Jumar, Clog): A mechanical braking device used for belaying oneself from a vertical fixed rope. Any individual anchor point, whether one piece of protection or an anchor system, must be able to hold a fall. An equalized anchor system places equal weight on multiple devices to reduce the chance of failure. Also see HADE below.Īnchor: A point where the rope is secured to the snow, ice or rock to provide protection against a fall. Glossary of rock, ice and mountain climbing termsĪlpine: Concerning high mountains, originally, concerning the Alps.Īlpine start: An early morning start to ascend before the sun softens the snow or to return before nightfall.Īlpine style: Lightweight, fast climbing that emphasizes the role of speed in safety, to climb and return quickly during a window of good weather.ĪMS (acute mountain sickness, hypoxemia, hypoxia): Symptoms of low blood oxygen due to high altitude: headache, loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, malaise and disturbed sleep.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |